If the latter, then my butt connectors don't have enough length of metal to allow you to crimp onto the insulation as well, and in any case the insulation won't fit into the little metal cylinder. And surely if you crimp onto the insulation, that'll reduce the pressure on the copper strands and give a poorer crimp?
Am I using the wrong type of connector? Are you putting the connector in the right way round? The only failures I get are using the wrong size connector for the wire. I have been known to recrimp on the next size hole down occasionally, but prob not needed. I always made sure the crimp is horizontal, with any join facing down too.
If you're using the insulated crimp terminals I think you are the sort I use , I think that's the wrong tool.
This is what you want: The ridge on the tool corresponds with the part on the crimp opposite to the cable entry or is it the other way around And no, butt crimps need each end crimped separately. Not sure I understand. Do you mean was I putting the connector into the tool the right way round?
If that's what you mean, then I'm not sure - but now I come to think of it, the first end did seem to work correctly and it was only when I tried to crimp the other end of the butt that it failed every time. I wasn't aware that it matters which way the crimp connector goes into the tool. Do the two crimping 'jaws' apply different pressure perhaps because one of them is indeed meant to be crimping onto the insulation? Otherwise I can't see why it would matter. Yesterday I was using red crimp connectors actually more a pinky colour with heat shrink insulation.
These would only just allow all the copper strands into the crimp, so should have resulted in a nice tight crimp. Should I have been using a blue one instead? But surely a larger crimp connector would have given an even slacker crimp? Thanks Smiler, maybe that's the problem. I'm using butt connectors with heat shrink insulation.
Must get myself a proper heat gun, which would work better than shrinking it with a match!! Edited to add: The one you've illustrated only seems to crimp in one point, although it looks like it creates a 'longer' crimp, which to my mine seems better. Edited again: With the one Smiler has illustrated, it clearly does matter which way round you use it. But my new tool seems completely symmetrical when viewed from the end of the jaws.
With the one Smiler has illustrated, it clearly does matter which way round you use it. I suspect you are putting the connectors in from the wrong side. For the ones you have.. Insert the connector into the crimps, with the side with the wire on the same side as the coloured dot. On the other side of the crimpers check that the connector this doesn't work for butt connectors you sort of have to guess a bit where with these bit that gets squished is flush with the side of the crimpers.
Poke the wire in and you should see it appear on the opposite side of the cimpers, get it flush with the edge of the connector then squeeze. Perfect everytime. Expose no more wire than the length of your terminal. Insert the wire into the appropriate nest for scoring and gently work the tool back and forth to perforate the insulation.
You can also buy a scoring tool, which is specifically designed to perforate insulation on electrical wires. Twist the wires with your fingers.
Twisting the wires together makes them easier to slip into the terminal. It also helps create a stronger crimp. After twisting, insert the wires into the terminal.
Insert the terminal into the correct nest of your crimping tool. Some crimping tools come with color-coded nests the match with common connector colors. Others come with wire gauges imprinted on the tool to help you choose the correct nest. Then, squeeze the crimp tool as hard as possible and release to get a tight, long-lasting fuse. You might have a ratchet crimping tool, in which case, the tool releases automatically once the crimp is made.
You don't have to squeeze it so hard. Method 2. Slide a jump ring or clasp onto your jewelry wire. Then slide a crimp bead onto the wire. Thread a short length of jewelry wire, about 3 inches 7. The crimp bead plus the wire threaded back through it secures the jump ring or clasp in place.
Push the crimp bead close to the jump ring or clasp. You want the crimp bead close to the jump ring or clasp, but leave a bit of room for those components to move around freely. A little room ensures that the closure will work properly and that the piece of jewelry will be comfortable for the wearer. Place the crimp bead in the middle crimping tool nest. The middle nest is curved like a shallow "U" and has a point that comes down to crimp the bead in two. Hold the two tails of wire apart and squeeze the crimping tool.
The goal is to use the crimping tool to create a bend in the center of the crimp bead. Place the crimp bead on its side at the tip of the crimping tool. The nest at the tip looks like an oval from the side of the tool. Squeeze the tool again to further bend the crimp bead and secure the jump ring or clasp at the end of the wire. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published.
Score electrical wires to remove insulation gently. Avoid using pliers as crimping tools in electrical projects. Moisture results in corrosion that can ruin a connection. You should also avoid using pliers as crimping tools in jewelry making. You Might Also Like How to. How to. About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: 2. Updated: April 1, Categories: Shaping Tools.
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